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The Quaker Parrot, also known as the Monk Parrot, originates from South America. In the wild, these birds exist in large colonies with complex social structures.

They have an unusual ability to use twigs and pliable branches to build large, communal nests in which all members of the colony may breed. As a result of this rich social structure, the Quaker Parrot is a highly social, friendly and energetic bird and makes a wonderful pet.

They are playful, cheeky and inquisitive and make excellent talkers. The voice of the Quaker Parrot has a distinct croaky/clicking sound and raspy chattering is frequently heard from these birds. Socialisation and interaction form an important part of the Quaker Parrots daily routine. This positive training approach should be used to overcome the domineering behaviour that some Quaker parrots may exhibit. They should not be confined to the cage as this may lead to behavioural problems. Physically, the Quaker Parrot is a hardy bird and is able to tolerate cold temperatures well.

Size: 30cm in length

Pet Status: Excellent

Talking Ability: Excellent

Noise Level: Low - Moderate

Lifespan: 25-30 years

Breeding Ability: Excellent

Number of Eggs: 4-8 eggs

Incubation: 24-28 days

Compatibility with other species: Not Advised

Feeding: Seed and Fruit Eaters

Health Programmes: Follow the Parrot Health Programme.

Sexing: Surgical or DNA sexing is required. Females are generally larger than males.

General plumage green; forehead bluish-grey; lores, cheeks and throat whitish-grey; breast brownish-grey, each feather edged with pale grey; upper abdomen olive-yellow; lower abdomen, rump, thighs and upper tail-coverts yellowish-green; outer webs of flight feathers blue; tail upperside green with blue down centre; underside pale green with greyish-blue base; periophthalmic ring grey; bill brownish-horn colour; iris dark brown; feet grey. Immatures with forehead tinged greenish. ... Length: 30 cm (12 ins), winglength 145-160 mm (5.75 - 6.25 ins)

The Quaker parrot, also known as the Quaker parakeet, also known as the Monk parrot or parakeet. Scientifically known as Myiopsitta monachus.

South America, including parts of Brazil, Argentina, Paraguay, Bolivia and Uruguay (am I missing any here?). Escaped, feral birds have also established themselves in parts of the US, particularly in Florida, but also in scattered cities as far north as Chicago and New York.

Around 11"; weight range is 85-150 grams, but the "average" Quaker is about 90-120 grams. Quakers are about the size of a large cockatiel, but have a stockier build.

Barring accident or disease, a Quaker can be expected to live around 20-30 years

A base diet of pellets is ideal; there's various brands to choose from (Kaytee Exact, Pretty Bird, Roudybush, Harrison's, and Zupreem just to name a few), but it doesn't really matter, and young Quakers are not usually picky. Quakers will eat either a cockatiel sized pellet or a larger parrot sized pellet; some birds prefer one over the other. Besides pellets, a wide variety of other foods should be offered; fruits, vegetables, breads and grains, and some seeds as well, although seeds should not form a large part of the diet in my opinion. The more variety in the diet, the better; it's easier to say what not to feed than to try to include everything that should be fed. Never feed chocolate, caffiene, alcohol, or avacado, all of which are toxic to birds. Some things can be fed, but should only be fed in very small quantities; these include junk foods (you know what I'm talking about!), red meat, and dairy products. On the dairy products, birds are universally lactose intolerant, but low-lactose dairy products like skim milk, yogurt, and most cheeses can be fed in higher quantities.

Your Quaker's wings should always be clipped, as should any pet bird's. Get your bird used to being handled "like a baseball" and having it's wings extended while it's young, and you shouldn't have to towel your bird for wing and nail trimming. My first pet Quaker tolerated the wing clipping, and actually seemed to enjoy the nail and beak filing! Ideally, have someone experianced in such things show you how to clip wings and nails before you attempt it yourself; otherwise, read up on the subject and make sure you know how to do it safely. Quakers are bath-loving birds as a species, and the Quaker that doesn't like bathes is the Quaker that wasn't socialized to them at a young age. Most Quakers prefer "bathtub-style" baths; fill a pie dish or similarly-sized container with about an inch to an inch and a half of water that's just slightly cool to the touch. Encourage your bird by shaking your hand in the water. Never place a bird in the water unless he's comfortable with that, and never hold your bird in the water when he wants to get out; this defeats the purpose by making the bath a thing to fear. Some Quakers prefer "shower-style" baths, involving a spray-bottle that has a "mist" setting. Spray the water over the bird, so that the mist floats down like rain; don't spray directly onto the bird, unless he seems to want you to (most dislike this). If he acts scared or avoids the spray, leave him alone; if he sits and ignores it, you might as well keep spraying. Some Quakers like to join their owners in the shower. Baths should be given as often as the bird wants them; sometimes as often as everyday, sometimes only once a week or less. Bathing is an essential, but often ignored part of bird care; it does wonders for a bird's feathers and skin, as well as providing entertainment, and can help to prevent or even cure feather plucking

Encephalitis 2

http://www.geocities.com/rainforest/vines/1492/quakers.html

http://www.avianweb.com/quakerinfo.html

http://www.quakerparrots.com/