Old City (Bern): Difference between revisions

The Old Town of Berne is a UNESCO Cultural World Heritage Site in Berne, Switzerland. The Old Town was founded on a narrow hill surrounded on three sides by the Aare River in 1191. Following a major fire in 1405 the city was rebuilt in sandstone, which gave the city a homogenous appearance. Despite reconstruction in the 18th Century, the original character of the medieval town has remained. In addition to many historical buildings, the Old Town is also home to many of the Confederation government buildings.

History of the Old Town

See also: Early history of Switzerland , History of Berne

The earliest settlements in the Aare Valley date back to the Neolithic period. During the 2^nd century BCE the valley was settled by the Helvetii. Following the Roman conquest of Helvetia a small Roman settlement was established near the Old Town. This settlement was abandoned during the 2^nd century AD. From that time until the founding of Berne the area remained sparsely settled.

Founding of Berne

The history of the city of Berne proper begins with its founding by Duke Berchtold V of Zähringen in 1191. Local legend has it that the duke vowed to name the city after the first animal he met on the hunt, which turned out to be a bear. Both the name of the city (Bern can stand for Bär(e)n, bears) and its heraldic beast, come from this legend. At that time, much of today's Switzerland (then considered part of southern Burgundy) was under the authority of the house of Zähringen. The Zähringer leaders, although with no actual duchy of their own, were styled dukes by decree of the German king and exercised imperial power south of the Rhine. To establish their position there, they founded or expanded numerous settlements, including Fribourg (in 1157), Berne, Burgdorf and Morat.^[1]

The area chosen by Berchtold V was a hilly peninsula surrounded by the Aare river on three sides. This location made the city easy to defend and influenced the later development of the city. The long, narrow shape of the peninsula made the city develop as several long, parallel rows of houses. The only major cross streets (going north and south) developed along the city walls, which were moved to allow the city to expand. Therefore, the cross streets mark the stages of development in the Old City of Berne.

On the eastern end of the peninsula a small fort, called Castle Nydegg, was founded by Berchtold IV in the second half of the 12^th Century. Either when the fort was built or in 1191, the town of Berne was founded around the eastern end of the peninsula.^[2]

First Expansion - 1191

The first expansion of Berne occurred as the city was founded. Most likely the first city started at Nydegg Castle and reached to the Zytglogge (Swiss German: clock tower). The city was divided by three longitudinal streets, which stretched from the Castle to the city wall. Both the position of the town church and the shape of the eaves were typical for a Zähringer city.^[1]

During the first half of the 13^th Century two additional streets (Brunngasse and Herrengasse)were added. Brunngasse was a semi-circular street on the north edge of the city, while Herrengasse was on the south side of the city. A wood bridge was built over the Aare River which allowed increased trade and limited settlements on the east bank of the river.

Second Expansion - 1255 to 1260

During the second half of the 13^th Century the river side foundation of Nydegg Castle was strengthened and connected to a new west city wall. This wall was added to protect the four streets, known as the New City or Savoy City, that had sprung up outside the Zytglogge. The new west wall included a gate known as the Käfigturm (German: Prison Tower).

Around 1268 Nydegg Castle was destroyed, and the city expanded into the area formerly occupied by the castle.^[2] In the south east part of the peninsula below the main hill that the rest of the Old City occupied, a section known as Matte grew up.

Third Expansion - 1344 to 1346

For almost a century the Käfigturm remained the western boundary of Berne. However, as the city grew, people began settling outside the city walls. In 1344 the city started to build a third wall to protect the growing population. By 1346 the project was finished and six new streets were protected by a wall and the Christoffelturm (German: St. Christopher Tower). The Christoffelturm remained the western border of Berne until the 19^th Century. From 1622 to 1634 a series of defensive walls and strong points were added outside the Christoffelturm. However, the population remained inside the Christoffelturm walls.

Great Fire of 1405

Berne was included in the UNESCO World Heritage Sites because of "an exceptionally coherent planning concept" and because "the medieval town...has retained its original character"^[3]. Berne owes its coherent planning concept and its famous arcades to a disaster. In 1405 a fire broke out in Berne, which was mostly wooden buildings at the time. The fire raced through the city and destroyed most of the buildings in town. In the wake of this disaster, the city was rebuilt with all stone houses in similar medieval styles. The arcades were added throughout the 15^th Century as houses expanded in the upper stories out into the street. Throughout the next three centuries houses were modified, but the essential elements (stone construction, arcades) remained.

In the 16^th Century, as Berne became a powerful and rich city-state, public fountains were added to Berne. A number of fountains were topped with large allegorical statues, eleven of which are still visible in the city. The fountains served to show the power and wealth of the city, as well as providing fresh water for the citizens of the city. Overall, the city remained nearly unchanged for the next two centuries.

Expansion and destruction of the Christoffelturm

By the early 19^th Century Berne had expanded as far as it could within the old city walls. An increasing number of people were living outside the city walls in neighboring communities. Throughout the 19^th Century, this ring of modern cities grew up around the Old City without forcing it to demolish the medieval city core. However, the growth around the Old City did lead to several projects.

Within the Old City of Berne, many of the old stone buildings were renovated without changing the outer appearance. The bell tower was finally finished on the Münster (German: Minister or Cathedral), making it the tallest church in Switzerland. A new bridge was built across the Aare at Nydegg in 1842 to 1844. The new bridge was larger than the, still standing, old bridge which had been built in 1461 to 1487.

One of the biggest projects was the proposed destruction of the Christoffelturm to open up the west end of the city. Following a very close vote the decision to remove the Christoffelturm and city wall was made on December 15, 1864. In the spring of the following year Gottlieb Ott led the team that removed the tower. Currently, the former location of the Christoffelturm is a large road interchange, a major bus station and the central train station.

Federal Capital in the 20^th Century

Following the Sonderbundskrieg in 1847, Switzerland established a federal constitution and Berne was chosen as the capital of the new Federal State. The vote to make Berne the federal city was met with little enthusiasm (419 vs 313 votes) in Berne^[4] due to concerns over the cost. The first Bundesrathaus or Parliament House was built in 1852-1857 by the city of Berne in a New-Renaissance style. The mirror image Bundeshaus Ost (East Federal Building) was built in 1884-1892. Then, in 1894-1902 the domed Parlamentsgebäudes or Parliament Building was built between the other two buildings.^[5] The three parliament buildings represent the majority of the new, federal construction in the Old City. Most of the other buildings that come with a national capital were placed outside the Old City or where incorporated into existing buildings.

For centuries the famous Bärengraben (German: Bear Pits) were located in the Old City. According to the Bernese historian Valerius Anshelm the first bears were kept on Bärenplatz (German: Bears' Plaza) in 1513^[6]. The bears remained in the Old City until the expansion of the new capital forced them out. The Bears and the Bärengraben were moved from the Old City across the Aare River on May 27 1857.

In the 20^th Century, Berne has had to deal with incorporating the modern world into a medieval city. The plaza where the Christoffelturm used to be, has become the central bus stop for the city. The main train station was built under the plaza, and actually includes some of the foundations from the Christoffelturm and wall in the train station. However, one of the biggest challenges has been integrating automobile traffic into the Old City. Due to the number of important buildings in the Old City and the central location of the Old City, it was impossible to completely close off this area to vehicles. While some streets have remained pedestrian zones, most major streets carry city buses, trams or personal vehicles.

Significant Buildings in Berne's Old City

While the entire Old City of Berne is a UNESCO World Heritage Site there are a number of buildings and fountains within the city that merit special mention.

Münster (Cathedral)

The Münster of Berne (German: Berner Münster) is a Protestant Gothic cathedral (or minster) located on the south side of the peninsula. Construction on the Münster began in 1421 and finished with the bell tower in 1893. The bell tower is 100m (328 ft) and is the tallest in Switzerland. The largest bell in the bell tower is also the largest bell in Switzerland. This enormous bell was cast in 1611 and is still rung every day. It is possible to stand next to the bell when it is rung, but one has to cover their ears to avoid hearing damage.

Above the main portal of the cathedral is a rare complete collection of Gothic sculpture. The collection represents the Christian belief in the Last Judgment where the wicked will be separated from the righteous. The large 47 free-standing statues are replicas (the originals are in the Berne History Museum) and the 170 smaller statues are all original.

The interior of the cathedral is large, open and fairly empty. Nearly all the art and altars in the cathedral were removed in 1528 during the iconoclasm of the Protestant Reformation. The paintings and statues were dumped in what became the Cathedral Terrace, making the terrace a rich archeological site. The only major pieces of art that survived the iconoclasm inside the cathedral are the stained glass windows and the choir stalls.

The stained glass windows date from 1441-1450 and are considered the most valuable in Switzerland. The windows include a number of heraldic symbols and religious images as well as an entire "Dance of Death" window. This window shows death, as a skeleton, claiming people from all professions and social classes. A "Dance of Death" was intended as a reminder that death would come to everyone regardless of wealth or status, and may have been a comfort in a world filled with plagues and wars.

The choir, in the eastern side of the Cathedral between the nave and the sanctuary, houses the first Renaissance choir stalls in Switzerland^[7]. The stalls are carved with life-like animals and images of daily life.

Zytglogge

The Zytglogge is the landmark medieval clock tower in the Old City of Berne. It has existed since about 1218-1220^[8] and is one of the most recognisable symbols of Berne. The name Zyglogge is Bernese German and translates as Zeitglocke in Standard German or time bell in English. A "time bell" was one of the earliest public timekeeping devices, consisting of a clockwork connected to a hammer that rang a small bell at every full hour^[9].

Following the first expansion of Berne the Zytglogge was the gate tower of the western fortifications. At this time, it was a squat tower of only about 16 m (or 52.5 ft) in height. During the second expansion, to the Käfigturm, the Ztyglogge wall was removed and the tower was relegated to second-line status. Around 1270-1275 an additional 7m (23ft) was added to the tower to allow it to overlook the surrounding houses^[10]. After the third expansion, to the Christoffelturm, the Zytglogge was converted into a women's prison. Most commonly it was used to house Pfaddendirnen - "priests' whores", women convicted of sexual relations with clerics.^[11] At this time, the Zytglogge also received its first slanted roof.^[12]

In the Great Fire of 1405, the tower was completely burned out. The structural damage would not be completely repaired until 1983. The prison cells were abandoned^[13] and a clock was installed above the gate. This clock, together with a bell cast in 1405, gave the tower the name of Zytglogge. In the late 15^th Century the tower was decorated with four decorative corner towerlets and heraldic symbols.^[14]. The astronomical clock was extended to its current state in 1527-1530.

The Zytglogge's exterior was repainted by Gotthard Ringgli and Kaspar Haldenstein in 1607–10, who introduced the large clock faces that now dominate the east and west façades of the tower.^[15] The corner towerlets were removed again some time before 1603.^[16] In 1770–71, the Zytglogge was renovated by Niklaus Hebler and Ludwig Emanuel Zehnder, who refurbished the structure in order to suit the tastes of the late Baroque, giving the tower its contemporary outline.^[17]

Both façades were again repainted in the Rococo style by Rudolf von Steiger in 1890. The idealising historicism of the design came to be disliked in the 20th century, and a 1929 competition produced the façade designs visible today: on the west façade, Viktor Surbek's fresco "Beginning of Time" and on the east façade, a reconstruction of the 1770 design by Kurt Indermühle.^[18] In 1981–83, the Zytglogge was thoroughly renovated again and generally restored to its 1770 appearance.^[19]

Parliament buildings

The Parliament Building (German: Bundeshaus, French: Palais fédéral, Italian: Palazzo federale, Latin: Curia Confoederationis Helveticae) is built along the southern edge of the peninsula and straddles the location of the former Käfigturm wall. The building is the used by both the Swiss Federal Council or Executive and Parliament or Federal Assembly of Switzerland. The complex includes the Bundeshaus West (built in 1852-57), the central Parliament Building (built in 1894-1902) and the Bundeshaus East (built in 1884-1892).

The central Parliament Building was built to be visible and is topped with several large copper domes. The interior was decorated by 38 artists from every corner of the country. Three major themes tied all the works together. The first theme, national history, is representated by events and persons from Swiss history. This includes the Rütlischwur or the foundation of Switzerland in 1291 and figures such as William Tell, Arnold von Winkelried and Nicholas of Flüe. The second theme is the fundamental principles that Switzerland was founded on; including independence, freedom, separation of government powers, order and security. The final theme is the cultural and material variety of Switzerland; including politically (represented by Canton flags), geographically and socially.^[3]

The two chambers where the National Council and the Council of States meet are separated by the Hall of the Dome. The dome itself has an external height of 64 m, and an internal height of 33 m. The mosaic in the center represents the Federal coat of arms along with the Latin motto Unus pro omnibus, omnes pro uno (One for all, and all for one), surrounded by the coat of arms of the 22 cantons that existed in 1902. The coat of arms of the Canton of Jura, created in 1979, was placed outside of the mosaic.

Untertorbrücke

The Untertorbrücke (German: Lower Gate bridge) is the oldest bridge in Berne still in existence. The original bridge, most likely a wooden walkway, was built in 1256 and spanned the Aare river at the Nydegg Fortress. The original wooden bridge was destroyed in a flood in 1460. Within one year, construction began on a new stone bridge. However, it took nearly 30 years to complete. Until the construction of the Nydeggbrücke in 1840, the Untertorbrücke was the only bridge crossing the Aare near Berne.

Nydegg Church

See also: de:Nydeggkirche

The original Nydegg Castle was built around 1190 by Duke Berchtold V. von Zähringen as part of the city defenses. Following the second expansion, the castle was destroyed by the citizens of Berne in 1268. The castle was located about where the Choir of the church now stands.

From 1341 to 1346 a church with a small steeple was built on the ruins of the castle. Then, between 1480 and 1483 a tower was added to the church. The central nave was rebuilt in 1493 to 1504. In 1529, following the Reformation, the Nydegg Church was used as a warehouse for wood and grain. Later, in 1566, the church was again used for religious services and in 1721 was placed under the Münster.

Fountains

See also: de:Kindlifresserbrunnen

There are over 100 public fountains in the city of Berne of which eleven are crowned with Renaissance allegorical statues^[20]. The statues were created during the period of civic improvement that occurred as Berne became a major city-state during the 16^th Century. The fountains were originally built as a public water supply. As Berne grew in power, the original fountains were expanded and decorated.

One of the most interesting statues is the Kindlifresserbrunnen (Bernese German: Child Eater Fountain) which is located on Kornhausplatz. The fountain was built by Hans Gieng in 1545-46 on the site of an 15^th Century wooden fountain. Originally known as Platzbrunnen (German: Plaza Fountain), the current name dates to 1666. The statue is a seated giant or ogre swallowing a naked child. Several other children are visible in a sack at the figure's feet. There are several interpretations of what the statue represents; including that it is a Jew with a pointed Jewish hat or the Greek god Chronos. However, the most likely explanation is that the statue represents a Fastnacht figure that scares disobedient children.

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  An image of justice with blindfold, scales and a sword.
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  The Orge has a sack full of children waiting to be devoured.
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  Moses with the Ten Commandments, located on Münsterplatz before the Münster.
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  The bagpiper
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  Sampson

See also

List of World Heritage Sites in Europe

References

External links

• Offical UNESCO listing for Old City of Berne
• UNESCO Evaluation of the Old City of Bern (.pdf only)
• Tourist Office of the city of Bern
• The Website of the Clock Tower (Zytglogge) in English and German